Located between Rabat and Tangier, on the Atlantic seaboard, Larache is a laid-back port.
Founded in 800 and occupied by the Portuguese during the 16th century, who build a fort here to imprison their captives from the War of the Three Kings. It later became a pirate hideout. The city was taken by the Spanish in 1610 and taken back by the Sultan in 1689, then under Spanish control once again from 1912 (Fes Treaty) until 1956.
As a result of its multiple invasions, Larache has an architecture and a lifestyle all its own, which varies from one neighborhood to the next. The Andalusian style coexists alongside the Arabic style, the evening "Paseo" (promenade) is punctuated by calls to prayer, and paella is served alongside Moroccan tajine dishes.
In a relaxing atmosphere, where tourist crowds have yet to appear, the locals have managed to keep their sense of hospitality, always ready to chat, but otherwise keeping a comfortable distance, something which can not be said for the denizens of more well-traveled areas in Morocco.
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The current medina was built during the 15th and 16th centuries. It has several entry gates and multi-levelled ramparts. You'll enjoy discovering this part of Larache, cousin to all old Moroccan medinas, which remains very authentic, with its lively atmosphere and narrow, colored streets which wind their way toward the port, gliding between mosques and zaouyas.
Points of interest within the old medina include:
Just below the medina, full of animation and local color.
You can attend the fish auctions (morning for white fish, evening for blue fish).
You can also savor succulent grilled sardines, either outside or in one of the nearby shops.
Don't miss the big woodworkers' market, near the stadium (on the way out of Larache on the old road to Rabat). Very authentic.
There are many shops and an artisan's center, with reasonable prices.
Beautiful building left by the Spaniards and completely renovated in 2002.
The Archeological Museum
This Spanish bastion dating from 1258 and bearing the blazon of Charles V, now holds a small museum of beautiful Phoenician and Carthaginian works discovered nearby. Some of these come from the Lixus ruins (including 2 bronze sculptures of Hercules and Antaeus as well as Theseus and the Minotaur.
Currently a musical conservatory.
You can't go inside, but this impressive edifice is worth a look.
Across from the Santa Maria church.
The hammam plays an important social role. Locals go there to wash themselves, as well as to chat and meet up with friends. For women, this is the place where mothers can judge the beauty of the young girls and select a future wife for their sons.
Generally located near the mosques the hammam serves to purify and cleanse oneself before prayer.
There are several of them in Larache, generally open to men in the morning or evening.
A towel hanging on the hammam door means women are inside.
Something to try: first you wash yourself with black soap, rubbing vigorously from head to toe with a canvas glove known as "al-kiss". After rinsing, your pores are ready to take full advantage of the steam and the therapeutic effects of the Turkish bath. Finish up with a cold shower.
Masseurs are also available for those who wish to call upon them.
The Seaside Esplanade
Symbolic of Larache and known as "The English Promenade" (la promenade des anglais), the esplanade is delimited by Andalusian-style homes. There are also several cafes, but this is primarily one of the central meeting points during the "Paseo", where Larache locals come to watch the sunset.
As everywhere else in Morocco, there are many cafes here. Beyond their function as meeting places and social venues, cafes are often also used as "offices" for the majority of artisans who have no shop.
Here, everybody rubs elbows, the rich and the poor, the young and the more mature.
As the beach is located on the other side of the Loukos estuary, you must go down toward the port and take a small rowboat to get there (takes about 5 minutes). The journey itself is delightful.
You can choose between two beaches, separated by a jetty: one, for those who like waves, goes on for miles. The other one, both smaller and less turbulent, is perfect for swimming.
Located in the Spanish cemetery along the seaside. A simple, white marble stone with blue veins, framed with whitewashed stones.
Genet is buried here according to his wishes, for he loved this place where he came to think while gazing at the ocean.
As if in mockery of his life, the cemetery is bordered by an old prison and a halfway home. Perched on his promontory, Genet continues to contemplate more than three thousand years of history.
The Salt Flats are where salt is cultured and harvested in the alluvial plains. You can observe a number of bird species here: pink flamingos, herons, swans, etc.).
A pine grove is located 500 yards from the beach and extends for miles along the ocean front.
Other large Eucalyptus and Cork-Oak forests are located near Larache.
This site is on the same bank of the Loukos as the beach, built on a hilltop which overlooks the whole valley and offers a splendid view of the winding oued (river) Loukos and the salt flats. It was here, in the Garden of the Hesperides that Hercules accomplished the eleventh of his tasks.
The site occupies about 62 acres, of which only twenty percent has been explored.
It was founded around 1100 B.C. by Phoenician sailors, even before Carthage, and was then called Maqom Shemesh or the City of the Sun.
Between the 3rd and 1st centuries B.C., Lixus became Mauritanian. This period was marked by king Juba II and his taste for Greco-Roman civilization. During this period, Lixus underwent a great economic boom and owes its development to commerce related to the use of maritime resources.
In 40 A.D., it was annexed by the Roman Empire. Under the emperor Claudius, the city was declared a colony, and thus from the 1st to 2nd centuries A.D., it prospered and attained its maximum size.
Lixus is thought to have been inhabited until the 5th or 6th century A.D. by a La tin-speaking population.
After a period of obscurity, Lixus reappears in Arabic literature under the name of Tchemmis, similar to Semes, as found on certain pre-Roman coins from the city. The Islamic occupation of Lixus is recorded up to the foundation of the city of Larache in the 14th century.
The monuments which can currently be visited include:
And should you not be tempted by the ruins, the view and a promenade amongst the Olive trees are worth the effort.
About 20km/12.5mi North of Larache, in the community of Sidi El Yamani, there is a large funeral barrow from the Neolithic period (2000 B.C.) which is encircled by 167 monoliths. It lies in the rolling countryside of the Rif, not far from a small, typical village with cactus-lined paths.
75km/47mi away. An enchanting city which continues to inspire artists and authors alike. A door to two worlds, where Europe ends and Africa begins.
35km/22mi away. A tourist haven, for those homesick for western amenities. In August, there is a Cultural Festival held here.
87km/54mi away. The old Andalusian capital, which hugs the Rif mountains.
172km/107mi away. A Holy City, all blue and white, in the heart of the mountain range.
103km/64mi away. Capital city of the kingdom.
180km/112mi away. Superb Roman ruins.
192km/119mi away. The fourth imperial city.
228km/142mi away. The city of a Thousand and One Nights.
204km/127mi away. The commercially dominant city.
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